Efficient boulderer

Zebloc : Despite you have one of the most impressive tick-list in Europe, french climbers don’t know you very well. Tell us who you are and where you come from.
Bernd : Facts and Figures
Born : 23.09.1978
Residence : Flirsch / Austria
Measures : 1, 76metres; 64kg
Occupation : Boulderer, Climber, Student
Other passions: exploring, clubbing ….live your life, live your dreams…

Zebloc : Do you have a job or are you a professional climber?
Bernd : A professional climber would earn money and can live with that money. So I can’t call me a professional. I am a student, or at least I was a regular student (geographie) from 1999-2001.
Then I spent more and more time on bouldering, and I just visit university …. for some exams once or twice a year. But sooner or later I should finish it. When I am running out of money I work on different locations (housebuilding, making tiles, climbingwalls…..). But this year I spent most time on the rock.

Zebloc : What is your favorite bouldering area?
Bernd :There are different areas I like. Magic wood and Tessino are always nice playgrounds. I go there since years and there are still so much possibilities.

Zebloc : Your favorite boulder problem (ok, if it is difficult to give just one, give me five)?
Bernd :Viva la evolution, Buggalagga, Mona lisa, Out of balance, Steppenwolf, Golden gate, …my project

Zebloc : What kind of boulder do you like? What kind of boulder do you hate?
Bernd : I am fascinated of at first sight unclimbable projects – of futuristic lines – not knowing if they’re possible or not and I am in search for the hardest possible move so far, but also of an approximate perfect and esthetic line.
I like everything if it’s a good line, proud boulder, cool moves.
I try to climb everything, and don’t care if doesn’t suit me ..or if its not my style. I like crimpers, powerful moves….. For me good boulders are not too long. Three to six moves, that’s a classic boulder for me.
…..I don’t like long boulderproblems, right now.

Zebloc : Do you have a particular project now? A known boulder or a first ascent?
Bernd :….too many projects. (first ascents)

Zebloc : Have you tried Dreamtime since it has been chipped?
Bernd : no

Zebloc : What is you opinion concerning already climbed boulders chipping?
Bernd :… climbing on natural rock-structures. This term should be clear and needs no more comment on. As soon as somebody is working on the natural rock structure we should say: artificial.
I have no problem, when somebody fixes, or removes hollow flakes on first ascents. But there are no excuses, when a climber is chipping on boulders, which have been climbed already. But more and more we are confronted with this – and « Dreamtime » is just the most famous example.
Already in 2002 the first new hold appeared on this great boulder problem, but in the last few months somebody worked really hard on this granite. There are a few new holds and one is much better now.
« Dreamtime » has been catched up by reality.
For me chipping is not understandable. Chipping is a sign for a « weak character » …or maybe somebody just wanted public appearance. Chipping means NO RESPECT FOR NATURE.
I have respect, and I try to modulate my body and not the rock, when I want to climb a project.
I can’t understand people, who are doing this. They are lying themselves, and it would be better if they try another sport.

Zebloc : Have you ever chipped when opening a new boulder?
Bernd : No

Zebloc : Who is the best climber in the world?
Bernd : Thomas Bubendorfer

Zebloc : Have you ever bouldered in France? Where? Which french area would you like to visit?
Bernd : I visited france twice. In 1995, when I started climbing. We were climbing in the Mt. Blanc area and we did grand capuchin. It was a great experience, but a few years later stopped alpin climbing after a horror trip in marmolada south wall. Last year I was in fontainebleau. ….I would like to spend more time in fontainebleau. It’s something different,and I think I will « learn » a lot there. And the place looks beautifull.